Acte Un

Beltway's never been much of a morning person but was roused early enough on a recent beach weekend to capture these views from Assateague National Seashore and the neighboring wildlife refuge, about three hours south of Washington. If you haven't been to this barrier island on Virginia's eastern shore, consider it soon for a restorative weekend. Fall is the best time to come, when the place becomes a major pit stop for all types of migratory birds. The black socks-wearing ecotourists particularly enjoy the snow geese, who come by the thousands and lift off at sunset in a vortex of sound and motion only to land minutes later in more or less the same place where they took off. A metaphor for ... (you finish the thought).
The eats can be found just across the causeway on Chincoteague Island. The town doesn't have a lot of dining variety in part, we're told, because it lacks a modern sanitary sewer system. Skipper's on Chicken City Road (yes, Chicken City) serves copious amounts of fresh fried fish and features a tangy red seafood chowder at the salad bar. A.J.'s is the town's high-end establishment. Try a retro hot shellfish dish like Oysters Rockefeller with a glass of wine. For more dining selections, consider continuing down Route 13 another 20 minutes to Onacoke, on the bay side. But before you leave, make sure you take a walk on the chilly, mostly deserted beach to sniff the air and listen to the waves crash.